Sailing the British Virgin Islands: A Complete Guide

Sailing the British Virgin Islands: the world's finest charter destination

The British Virgin Islands consistently ranks first among the world's charter destinations, and it's not a close competition. The Sir Francis Drake Channel — a sheltered body of water running between Tortola to the north and the islands of St John, Norman Island and Cooper Island to the south — provides consistent 15–20 knot trade winds, short passages, and mooring balls that eliminate anchoring anxiety for first-time bareboaters.

It's a destination engineered, almost accidentally, for sailing holidays. Fifty-plus islands in an area roughly 15 miles across. Crystal-clear water over white sand. A sunset rum punch culture that has made the Soggy Dollar Bar at White Bay one of the most famous beach bars on earth.

Getting there

Via St Thomas (USVI): Fly to St Thomas (STT) via Miami, New York or other US hubs. A ferry from Red Hook, St Thomas to Road Town, Tortola takes approximately 45 minutes.

Via Antigua: Several airlines fly direct to V.C. Bird International (ANU) from London Gatwick. Connecting flights to Terrance B. Lettsome International Airport on Beef Island (EIS), adjacent to Tortola, operate via Antigua.

Via San Juan (Puerto Rico): Well-connected via the US mainland, with ferry services onward to the BVI.

Charter bases

Road Town, Tortola: The main charter hub. The Moorings, Sunsail, Dream Yacht Charter and several independent operators all base their fleets here. Well-stocked provisioning stores and fuel docks. Customs and Immigration clearance office in the marina.

Soper's Hole, West End, Tortola: A more sheltered alternative base, closer to Jost Van Dyke. Quieter than Road Town with a pleasant village feel and good provisioning.

Nanny Cay, Tortola: Mid-island location between Road Town and West End. The Moorings operates a large fleet here. Excellent boatyard and marine services.

The five essential anchorages

1. The Baths, Virgin Gorda

The BVI's most famous attraction — a series of cathedral-like grottos formed by enormous granite boulders at the south-west tip of Virgin Gorda. Swim through the caves, wade between boulders in turquoise pools, emerge on a perfect beach. Arrive before 10am to beat the day-tripper boats. Mooring balls available just offshore; swimming distance.

2. White Bay, Jost Van Dyke — the Soggy Dollar Bar

The original painkillers — rum, coconut cream, pineapple, orange juice, nutmeg on top — were invented here. There's no dock at White Bay; you anchor and swim ashore, hence the name (your dollar bills get soggy). The beach is stunning: a long arc of white sand, palm-shaded, with the Blue Lagoon and Ivan's Stress Free Bar at the far end. The Soggy Dollar is the BVI's soul.

3. Cooper Island Beach Club

An island-owned eco-resort with a rum bar, excellent food and warm, welcoming staff. The anchorage in front of the beach club is calm and beautiful. Cooper Island's underwater snorkelling trail is one of the best in the BVI — coral in remarkable health.

4. Norman Island — the Caves

Norman Island is the reputed inspiration for Robert Louis Stevenson's Treasure Island. The Caves at Treasure Point are three sea caves at water level, accessible by kayak or dinghy, filled with fish and coral. The William T. Thornton — a converted barge — sits in the anchorage; it's the most atmospheric floating bar in the Caribbean.

5. Anegada — lobster and flamingos

Anegada is the BVI's coral atoll — flat, fringed by reef, with pink flamingos wandering the salt pond interior and the best lobster in the Caribbean served at waterfront shacks on the beach. The passage through the Anegada Passage requires good visibility and careful navigation; most charterers take a day sail north from North Sound, Virgin Gorda. Worth every mile.

Mooring ball system

The BVI National Parks Trust operates a mooring ball system throughout the island group. Balls cost £25–30 per night, payable to the Trust's boat that makes evening rounds. They eliminate the need to anchor in protected areas and are mandatory in several National Park zones. Always pick up a ball before dark.

Regulations and customs entry

Upon arrival in the BVI from the US Virgin Islands (or anywhere else), you must check in at Customs and Immigration. In Road Town, this is straightforward at the marina office. Costs include a cruising permit (approximately £30), a National Parks Trust mooring ball pass, and individual crew clearance fees. The whole process takes under an hour.

Keep your clearance documentation on board at all times. BVI Customs can stop and inspect any vessel.

Licence requirements

The BVI requires a valid boating licence for bareboat charter. The ICC (International Certificate of Competence) is recognised and accepted by all major charter companies. Some operators may additionally request a logbook demonstrating prior offshore sailing experience.

Charter companies will conduct a brief sign-off sail in the harbour before handing over the keys to a bareboat. Arrive having refreshed your skills on anchoring, mooring and man-overboard.

When to go

Best season: December to May. The trade winds blow consistently from the north-east at 15–20 knots. Temperatures average 27°C. Seas are calm in the Drake Channel.

Hurricane season: June to November. Most charter companies close or severely reduce operations. Do not charter during this period without appropriate insurance and the means to evacuate the vessel if a hurricane track develops.

Christmas and New Year: Spectacular but the most expensive weeks of the year. Book 18 months ahead for the best boats.

Costs

Bareboat catamaran (45ft, 8 berths): £3,500–5,000 per week bareboat in peak season. Add provisioning (£180 per person per week at Riteway Food Market, Road Town), mooring balls (£25/night x 6 nights = £150), customs entry (£100), and fuel (£150 for the week). Total for 8 guests: approximately £5,000–7,000, or £625–875 per person excluding flights.

Skippered charters add £250–350 per day for the captain.

Top tips

• Provision fully at Road Town before departure — prices at island anchorages are high.
• The Christmas winds (late December) are among the strongest of the year. Take reefs early.
• Carry cash. The Soggy Dollar doesn't take cards. Many anchorage restaurants prefer it.
• Rum Punch at Foxy's, Jost Van Dyke on a Friday evening is one of the great sailing experiences anywhere.
• The BVI is one of the best destinations in the world for first-time bareboaters — short passages, predictable winds, mooring balls instead of anchoring, excellent charter infrastructure.

Explore British Virgin Islands charter options.